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Use Yours When Choosing One By Matthew
Francis
Introduction
The alarm control is the brain of your security system. It is typically
placed in an area that is out of the way like a basement, attic, closet or
office. The motherboard and additional components such as radio receivers,
backup
power supply and zone expanders are inside this metal box, which is
often locked. You will have little or no interface with the alarm control. Your
alarm technician will need to access this unit to program it and wire it to
general standards, or your custom standards.
There are many manufacturers of alarm controls. Each
manufacturer
will also produce several models within a particular product line.
Alarm companies purchase direct from the manufacturer or more
often
buy their products through one of a few available alarm
distributors in
their area. These distributors and manufacturers do not sell product
to the non- professional consumer You can buy this equipment on
line if you have the ability to install it and service it yourself. As
a
general rule the controls that are most dependable and have the
most programming options are more costly. I will teach you how
to
get the best control you can find as this will greatly affect your
ease of use and your ability to have your alarm adjusted to fit your
lifestyle.
In the interest of keeping this device as understandable as possible
for you, I will forgo the intense and hundreds of differences among these units
and I will break them into a few categories that should make more sense to
you.
BASIC
There are many basic units available to the alarm dealer. They will
often use these units knowing that the average consumer does not know the
difference, and they will stock them at very little expense. A less qualified
installer can also install these basic units, because there are few or no
programming and wiring options.
(HOT TIP!)
What you should be most concerned about when it comes to these basic
units is that we professionals refer to many of them as “ CROWBAR SYSTEMS.” These systems come as a control, keypad, siren,
communicator and backup power supply all built into one unit. If a burglar
breaks into your place and hears a siren coming from this unit, they are going
to take the proverbial crowbar and smash it off the wall. At this time you would
no longer have a control, keypad, siren, backup power supply or communicator to
call for help. A lot of good that would do for you!
Now that you are educated in the pitfalls of a self contained unit I
doubt that anyone will be able to sell you one, or even give you one for that
matter.
AVERAGE
The majority of systems that professional alarm companies install fall
into this category. They are dependable for the most part based on how long the
model has been on the market. Some of these manufacturers have stuck with their
dependable product lines for well over 20 years. Some of the newer models have
nice new features but when it comes to mid-range units I have always avoided
turning my clients into product testers. These units are comprised of any number
of separate components that are wired together to make your complete system.
This way if someone knocks a siren or keypad or any other component off the wall
the alarm still does what it needs to do. The control panel in this range
typically comes with at least eight zones. Zones give you the ability to use all
or part of your system; you will also be able to pinpoint with some accuracy
where a violation has taken place. An example of using part of your system would
be as follows:
*You are staying home and want only your perimeter devices on and your
interior devices off.
* You are lounging in the back yard and want to go in and out of the
back door so you bypass that door and motion detector while protecting the
remainder of the house.
* You are leaving work for the evening and your employees are staying
late so you bypass the work area and arm the office so no one can enter that
area.
When choosing your alarm company avoid the dealer that has many brands
and models available to you in this range. That could mean that they are buying
whatever is on sale that week from the distributor. The dealer that has used the
same model for many years is more proficient when it comes to installing,
programming options and servicing of that model.
HIGH END
If you know what you want in an alarm
system and realize that these high-end systems can be programmed to
do exactly what you want them to do for many different scenarios, you would
settle for nothing less. All of your presets can be activated usually with the
touch of one button. It is my experience that all of the many different features
of these type of controls are designed for ease of use by the end user (That’s
You!) and not the alarm dealer. They come with many zones so you have complete
control over every aspect of your protection. These units can even be serviced
remotely when changes are requested saving everyone time and
money.
It takes a more qualified professional to properly install, find out
what your requirements are, program the alarm to fit your lifestyle, and then
teach you how simple it is to operate. I would assume you are like me and want
the best-qualified installer you can find to work inside your
home.
(HOT TIP!)
Find the dealer that places the highest number of installs in your
area. Because of the volume they buy in, they will get the high-end equipment
for the same price the rest of the dealers pay for the average equipment. They
should always be willing to use the high-end equipment without extra cost to
you, because it sets them apart from the others and due to the quality of
equipment, they don’t carry the expenses of maintaining a large service
team.
WHO CAN YOU CALL?
BBB, Burglar
Alarm Associations (both local and national), State licensing
authority or my favorite the promotions or sales manager of your potential alarm
dealer, and let them know you know the difference!
Lets look at a typical zone layout for a control panel so that you can
understand the way it is wired and programmed works.
ZONE 1- (DELAY) This zone is where the doors from which you most often
enter and exit are. When you turn your alarm on, the exit delay will start a
timer (programmed to your specifications, if requested) allowing you time to get
out. Once the exit time has expired, (usually about 30-60 seconds.) the alarm
will be in the on or “armed” condition.
When you return to
your home or business and enter through the delay doors an entry timer begins.
This timer is usually set at about 15-30 seconds. You do not want to have a long
entry time as a burglar entering through a delay zone has the same amount of
time in your protected area before the alarm goes off. During this time you
would go to the nearest keypad and enter your code to turn your alarm
off.
(IN THE KNOW!)
The delay doors
have a chime feature that can easily be turned on or off. Most people elect to
leave this feature on all the time, so that they can hear a tone when the alarm
is off and someone enters. The high-end systems can be programmed to have a
different tone for each door. If you can spare a zone have your delay doors put
on separate zones as opposed to having them share one, and request that your
control be programmed for different tones.
ZONE 2- (INSTANT
PERIMETER) This zone would be for other than delay doors.
The back yard door
and the master bedroom to deck doors are good examples of these types of doors.
There is no delay timer on these doors and when the alarm is on and entry is
made the alarm will go off instantly.
ZONE 3- (INTERIOR)
This zone is for your motion detector on the main floor. When you enter through
a delay door the motion will delay also, giving you the ability to get to the
keypad to turn off or “disarm” your system. If you do not enter through a delay
door first and the motion sees you it will go into an alarm condition instantly.
When you are staying home or arming your business system without leaving, you
can arm your system in the stay mode. This will bypass your interior zone or
zones allowing you to move around without restrictions while still having your
perimeter secured.
ZONE 4-(INTERIOR)
This zone is for your basement motion detector. It will function the same as
your main floor motion detector.
(HOT TIP!)
Most alarm
technicians will put multiple motion detectors on a single interior zone. I like
to be sure these are separated, so that you have the flexibility of deciding
which stays on and which are bypassed, when armed in the stay mode. This would
be handy if you have an unfinished basement with windows, and you have no need
to access that area while armed in the stay mode. This also gives you pinpoint
indications of which area has been or is being violated when the alarm
sounds.
ZONE 5- (INSTANT)
This zone is for basement or lower level door or window
contacts.
ZONE 6- (INSTANT)
This zone is for main or upper level window contacts.
ZONE 7- (INSTANT)
This zone is for main floor glass break detectors.
ZONE 8- (FIRE) This
zone is for smoke and heat detectors. Any zone that is designated as a fire zone
is on 24 hours a day even if the alarm is not armed.
As you can see
there is great flexibility in the way your alarm control gets set up for you. In
all my years in the business I have rarely seen an alarm company discuss this
with the customer. Typically they will create a general setup standard and tell
the client this is how this works. Understanding that you should be involved in
this process helps you design a system that fits into your lifestyle instead of
having to adjust your lifestyle to your new alarm system.
This is yet another
reason to be sure you are getting the most bang for your buck when selecting an
alarm control.
(INSIDER INFO!)
The alarm installer
most likely has the ability to program a lockout code into your alarm control.
This code prevents a different monitoring or service company in the future from
re-programming your system, rendering it useless unless you do business with the
installing dealer. Insist on “NO LOCKOUT CODE” in writing from your installing
dealer. This way they have to earn your future business, leaving your freedom of
choice intact.
Hardwired Systems vs. Wireless-
Hardwired systems are those that
have the devices wired directly to the control. Wireless systems send radio
signals to a receiver in the control, which processes the signals. There is
nothing more dependable than a pair of copper wires to send a signal from point
A to point B. I would recommend a hardwired system over a wireless
system in all instances where one can be installed. However there are times when
the only thing that can be installed in your place is a wireless or “radio
frequency” system.
If there is no
basement or a finished one, and there is no accessible attic to run wire
through, you would have to go wireless to have your system installed. In the
wireless world there is a great range of quality available. Wireless equipment
is more costly than hardwired equipment in general because each device has a
radio transmitter built into it or attached to it. If you need to go wireless
make sure you are getting the highest quality radios available. Some use common
frequencies like 900 megahertz and others use licensed frequencies to transmit
signals. The latter is the better one because there is little that will
interfere with the signal. Some of the things that could interfere with the
common frequencies are airplanes, CB radios, cell towers etc.
A good way to look
at the differences in the quality of wireless equipment is to think of a
wireless home telephone. The cheap $20.00 unit uses common frequencies. It
works, but often has static and drops out. Sometimes you hear a neighbor with
the same phone frequency talking. The range you can wander from the base is
often less than desirable.
The $100.00 unit
makes all the difference in the world and, although you hated spending the extra
money on the replacement, you appreciate the quality gained.
I would rather not
have an alarm system at all, before I would have one that I don’t use because it
is always going off for no apparent reason. The high- end wireless equipment is
extremely dependable and you must be prepared to spend a little extra to assure
you are at this end of the quality spectrum.
(FOR YOUR
CONSIDERATION!)
If you have an area
such as a basement or accessible attic to run wires in, and your alarm company
wants to sell to you or give you a wireless system, consider not doing business
with them. They are most likely going to use low quality, inexpensive wireless
equipment and also save on the cost of installation. A wireless system takes
less time for workers to install because they don’t need to take the time or to
have the skill to hide the wires.
Wireless equipment
has several other shortcomings that are unavoidable no matter what the quality
of equipment you get:
* The transmitters
are large and having one on each of your doors is not as aesthetically pleasing
as the small hardwired devices.
* The
transmitters have batteries in them that have to be
changed periodically.
* Many wireless
systems will not tell you if a transmitter is not working, so you have a false
sense of security.
* Wireless devices
are frequency and brand specific so they must match the manufacturer of the
control. Updating your control in the future could thus render all your devices
useless or restrict your choices in control features.
Hardwired devices
of any brand with a few exceptions can be wired directly to any brand control.
So if you are upgrading an existing hardwired system you will most likely be
able to use the old contacts, motion detectors, smoke detectors, glass break
detectors, etc.
One advantage of
wireless equipment is that you can place devices exactly where you want them in
what would be a complicated hardwire situation. There are great high quality
systems at your disposal if a wireless system is a necessity for your
installation.
You can also add a
wireless receiver to any hardwired control at any time, so that you can transmit
one or several devices to it. We call this a hybrid system, since it is now both
hardwired and wireless. Reducing the amount of wireless devices on your system
will reduce your cost and increase your dependability. The same rule applies to
a wireless system since you can hardwire in any device that you can get a wire
to.
Be advised that
even if you have a wireless system, there are still a few things that must be
hardwired to it, such as the keypad, power transformer, sirens and phone line.
This may restrict placement of the control panel to an area that is wire
accessible to all of these devices. It is worth repeating. There is nothing more
dependable than a pair of copper wires to send a signal from point A to point B.
If any wire would happen to get cut, it would open the circuit causing an alarm
if the system is on.
Compare Apples to
Apples- As you can see there is, as with most things in life a great range of
quality available to you when choosing an alarm system and its components.
Taking the time needed to compare all features of each component of your
proposed alarm system will always be to your advantage. Most any alarm
consultant will jump to the high end of available equipment, if their potential
customer is asking for the differences to be explained.
Matthew is a
22-year veteran of the alarm system industry. He now works as a consumer
advocate, teaching consumers how to buy or get systems for free (without being
taken).He is committed to being unbiased.
His web site is
http://www.expertsknow.com
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